Zalangam

Potential archeological Site Discovered By Doctor And Engineer  

 Preface

We, the authors of this monograph, with much delight, want to report and submit details of our archeological discovery in the forests of Zalangam village. We will first provide a brief description of the village, its neighbourhood and the important routes linked with the place. After a very brief account of how we discovered the site, specific details about the exact archeological site with the help of illustrations will be given. Our significant observations of the site will be described. An illustrated description of the artefacts, bricks, terracotta tiles, stone carving, etc. which we found by minutely scanning the site will be provided. Some interesting facts about Zalangam in general and the site in particular, which may have links with our discovery, will be mentioned. It will be followed by an open discussion and finally the conclusion about our discovery.

Introduction

Kashmir valley is traditionally divided into two parts Maraz and Kamraz. Maraz was southern part of Kashmir while as Kamraz comprised northern part of Kashmir. Srinagar was central point of both the divisions. Zalangam which is in Islamabad district therefore falls in Maraz.

In the revenue record, Kokernag is named Bindoo-Zalangam. However, currently Zalangam is the name of a village which lies 2 km South-East of Kokernag spring. It is at an altitude of 1950 m. This village is densely populated at the foot of a mountain.  In front of the village are the crop fields stretching to a width of 2 km towards the base of Poruv hills on the opposite side, where Brengi river flows. This river originates from the glaciers of Sinthan and is very significant as it provides the irrigation waters for the fields, is home to some fish species including trout and powers the mill stones. The whole area surrounding Brengi, including Zalangam, is thus named Breng - a picturesque valley!

The only motorable road which passes through Zalangam connects it with Islamabad town.  Ahead of this village, the road leads to Daksum, Gawran, Gadool, and Magam. It’s important to note here that this road has been used since centuries as shortcut route to Kishtwar via Sinthan pass. This road is currently being constructed as National Highway by BRO. Besides, there are some routes, wellknown among locals, which lead to Verinag from this village through the forests. The neighbouring villages of Zalangam are Bindoo, Wandevelgam, Magam-Sonbrari Gohihard and Adigam.

Presently, the principal occupation of the people is agriculture. Others include businessmen, traders, artisans, government servants, etc. All inhabitants of Zalangam have Kashmiri as their mother tongue and are Muslims.

The main cereal crops grown in Zalangam are rice, mustard seeds, and wheat. Fruits and nuts grown here include apple, pear, walnut, almonds, etc. Many herbs of medicinal value such as Bunufsha, Afsanteen, etc. are also found in pine and deodar forests of Zalangam. Brengi river is the only source of irrigation. Drinking water is obtained from local springs.

Although Kokernag spring and Daksum have ever lured tourists but there is little tourist inflow in Zalangam. Till date, no site of archeological significance was known of in this area.

Discovery of the site

Zalangam is our native village. Having our personal affiliation with Zalangam, we were naturally interested in the geographical, social and economic details of this village. Pursuing this interest, we set out on Feb. 28^th 2010 to make a detailed survey of the springs in Zalangam and study the physical and chemical properties of their waters. It’s worth mentioning here that Kokernag spring is the most famous and biggest spring in Breng with mention in Ain-e-Akbari. However, there are many small springs around, mainly in the forest, which have very interesting properties and are worth detailed research e.g. Calcium Nag in Bindoo and many others in our Zalangam.

As we moved on from one spring to another, we reached the major one among all springs in Zalangam. This spring is presently known as Malik Nag and has ever been and is still the major source of drinking water to Zalangam. It’s clear that without this spring, the inhabitation in Zalangam would have been nearly impossible. As we were studying the springs and area around, our attention was suddenly drawn by some pieces of strange bricks lying on the ground. We were surprised by their presence. The possibility of these being debris was nil because this area is quite isolated from any residential area. As we walked around the area, we noticed that there was an elevated flat portion with no pine trees. We immediately realised there is a high possibility that some time in the past this place could have been an inhabited area as the basic requirement i.e. water was available from this spring. It was still a guess as by now we had no solid proof. However, we were determined to make planned visits to this place for making more investigations. This was a brief story of how we discovered the site.

Brief description of the site

The site is located in the forest at a distance of approximately 1.5 km from the Jamia Masjid of Zalangam which in turn is located at a distance of 2 km from famousKokernag spring or 82 km from Srinagar. Thus, it is at a distance of approximately 84 km from Srinagar. The coordinates of the site are 33°33̍ North - 75°18̍ East and it’s 2200 m above sea level.

At first look, the site appears nothing more than a forest. There are no traces of any monuments above the ground. There are only pine trees all around. Perhaps, this is the reason why this remained unnoticed till date in spite of the fact that this area is frequented by shepherds and villagers collecting firewood or wild vegetation. In fact, we ourselves had visited the site numerous times for leisure before we discovered its archeological importance.

Figure 2. Archeological site near Malik Nag

 

There are many small springs around Malik Nag. They include Dod Kei, Hei Nagi, Rang Nagi, etc. Heavy snow and rains are continuously causing soil erosion and forming small gorges through the site.    

Significant Observations

As we mentioned earlier that superficially the whole area appears just forest. However, after careful and focussed study of the area near Malik Nag and surrounding areas we have made following important observations:

1. Near Malik Nag there is an elevated area with no pine trees on it. On one side of this place there is a small gorge formed by rain water. It has naturally exposed this site to a depth of 2-3 m. As we slightly scratched its walls, we found lots of bricks, terracotta tiles, pottery pieces and charcoal.

 

The concentration of these artefacts increases with depth. At the bottom of the wall, these form a whole layer all along the gorge.

2. Initially we supposed that these artefacts would be near Malik Nag only. But as we scanned the whole hill, in an area of about half a square kilometre, to our surprise, we made similar findings. There are many flat areas like the one near Malik Nag.
3. Many big stones in the area, which may be megalithic stones, are also found. Maybe, these stones are the signposts of the pre-historic cave dwellings like those of Burzuhama and Gufa-Kral.
4. There are many dry ponds and rain water fills them during rainy seasons.

Important Collections

We didn’t perform any excavation at the site as we are not legally authorised to do so. However, we did some scratching of the area and searched for the artefacts and other objects of archeological significance. We naturally found most of the objects along the gorge area. The list of our collection is as follows:

1. Bricks: These were all baked. Although most of these were broken, however some were intact and measured 1΄×1΄×4˝. These were unpolished on all sides. Lots of burnt and deformed bricks are also found. Interestingly, almost all pottery, brick and tiles are attracted by a magnet.
2. Tiles: Most of the tiles were terracotta tiles, with no inscription on them. However, some tiles were polished on one surface. Since we didn’t find any intact tile, we couldn’t get their length and width but most were 1˝ thick. Some big tiles had a slight curvature, which may indicate they covered big rounded structures/surfaces.
3. Pottery: Broken red pottery pieces were found in abundance, which appear to be parts of pitcher pots, utensils, containers, etc. We also found some intact pottery. They were very fine works and some pieces had certain design inscribed on them. But unfortunately we found very few pieces with  inscription and that too incomplete.
4. Stone carvings: The most interesting objects are the stone carvings. We found a sculpture, of dimensions 1΄×5˝, which clearly is a broken part of a bigger one with an image of a person carved on it.

It’s shown seated, displaying the lateral facet of its body and holding something in its hands. Some stones are round in shape and chiselled flat on two opposite sides.

 

5. Metal slag: Huge amounts of metal slag, usually forming big heaps, are found near the site. Physical examination suggests that it is iron slag.

 

Charcoal: Deep beneath the ground is a layer of charcoal at some locations. They are mostly found as big chunks.

Unfortunately, we were unsuccessful in finding any metal implements or coins in the area. But most probably they should be found using metal detectors or by excavation.

Interesting miscellaneous observations

Besides there are some other interesting observations in the village Zalangam which are worth mentioning. It must be noted that these descriptions are not about the site in the forest that has been discussed above. Rather they are about the present residential area of the Zalangam. So they may or may not be related to the site or may throw some light about the immediate past of Zalangam.

1. Iron works: The history of iron works at Sof, which lies 4 km away from Zalangam, is well known. However, nothing was known about the iron works in Zalangam. There are thousands of tonnes of iron slag near the road, forming a very huge mound. Locally people call iron slag as kirkot and thus the heap of this iron slag askirkot taeng.

When we searched in this slag, we were successful in finding a network of clay pipes, which must have been used in iron works. The internal diameter of these pipes is 1.5˝.

As mentioned above, similar slag is found near the Malik Nag too. Moreover, we found similar heaps of iron slag in the neighbouring villages- Bindoo and Adigam.

2. Tomb of a Muslim Saint: Close to the Jamia Masjid, in the graveyard, there is a tomb of Muslim saint by the name of Hazrat Baba Eid Baab (ra). The date of demise inscribed on the tomb is 960 AH (1553 AD). This gives an idea that Islam was introduced before or during this era.

 

3. Ancient coins: Few years back some kids while playing had found an earthen pot buried in the ground.  Hundreds of ancient coins, belonging to Sultanate period (14th to 16th Century), were found in it. We were fortunately able to retrieve a sample from those coins.

Discussion

As we are not experts in the archeological field, we may not be precisely correct about the interpretations of our findings. But here we intend to present a free and open discussion and try to analyse things rationally. We will raise questions and try to answer some of them.

The name ‘Zalangam’ may literally be translated as zalan- burns/burning gam-village. Local people are of the view that Zalangam is named so because Kashmiri Pandits were cremated in this village although there is no evidence to support this view. But we are hesitant to accept this notion because as we know there were Pandit communities all over the valley, so Zalangam in any case wouldn’t have been the only place for cremation. Our personal belief is that Zalangam got its name because of the iron works (where burning process is involved).

It is clear that human habitation at the site had been favourable due to the availability of fresh water from the springs. This logically suggests that similar settlements should be searched for in the adjoining springs especially Kokernag . In case it is not found, then the question arises why they got settled in Zalangam only? Or those springs did not exist in that era! Nearly all clans resident in village are immigrants, thus indicating that the present population is not a continuation of the past inhabitation at the site. Then what has led to their extinction?

Few decades back, baked bricks were not yet used in any construction in the present village. This indicates that the bricks abundantly found at the site are not of the present era. Prof. Fida M. Hassnain, renowned Kashmiri historian and archeologist, noted that the pottery, tiles and the bricks found there are of the Buddhist Era (pre-5^th Century A.D). He is of the opinion that the Buddhist monks who participated in the fourth Buddhist Council may have visited this place. Regarding the stone carvings, he is of the view that it can’t be ruled out that they owe their existence to Buddhist or Pre-Buddhist era (Sino-Greek civilisation). The depth at which the pottery and the bricks are found is 2-3 m below the surface and the fact that big pine trees have grown over the area also suggest that it dates back to centuries. The site spans over a vast area which suggests that it could have been a big settlement and not just a single structure. Lots of dry ponds are also seen, usually in the shape of circular craters. These may have been formed by humans or may be a result of some natural phenomenon. All the springs provide fresh and clear drinking water except Rang Nagi (Coloured Spring). It is named so because of the interesting fact that its water turns rusty brown.

The huge amount of iron slag is direct evidence that iron smelting was done on a large scale in Zalangam and neighbouring areas. Fuel was easily available owing to the presence of pine forests. The network of clay pipes near the slag, according to Prof. Aijaz A. Banday, professor of Asian studies Kashmir University, was used in the iron foundry. Here various agricultural implements, weapons and other household items of iron would have been manufactured. We expect that, once searched for, plenty these should be found in the area.  It would be wise to explore the possibility of profitable production of iron at present in this area.

We strongly believe the presence of iron ore in the area due to following reasons: 1) Presence of large quantity of iron slag and the foundry. 2) Artefacts being attracted by magnet suggest that clay used is high in iron content. 3) The water of Rang Nagi turns rusty brown due to the presence of high iron impurity.

The road links Zalangam with Islamabad and Kishtwar. This would have meant significant political, social and economical effect on it.

It’s worth mentioning that, few years back, ancient coins belonging to the era of Hindu kings Harsha and Kalsha were found at Watnar near Kokernag.  It may or may not be related with history of Zalangam.

Conclusion: We have lessons to learn from our ancestors. They were brilliant architects and engineers. They had advanced technology and industries in their era whereas our industrial sector is frozen even in 21^st century! Unlike us, they were proud of their identity and culture as is manifest through their unique architectural designs - be it their edifice or pottery.  They stamped a permanent impression on the annals of history. Our ancestors are an inspiration for us in the present age of globalization.

Due to our limitations of time and resources, we couldn’t conduct exhaustive search of the site and surrounding areas. Our observations and findings are only tip of the ice-berg. It’s the professional task of archeological authorities and experts to inspect the site and take appropriate steps to further explore the area. We are very optimistic that it will give new dimension to the history of Kashmir.

Famous Kashmiri saint Sheikh Noor-ud-din Wali (ra), is reported to have praised valley Breng in these words- “Breng chu Son sund Preng- Gamat har pani yati prar”. We thank Almighty Allah to help us discover about the grand past of this valley. It has been a wonderful, enlightening and spiritual experience for us. We conclude with verses from Holy Quran- “All that is on earth will perish. But will abide forever the Face of thy Lord – full of Majesty, Bounty and Honour” (55:26-27).

 

Acknowledgement

We are indebted to Prof. Fida M. Hassnain for his guidance, encouragement and affection. We are thankful to Prof. Aijaz A. Banday for his valuable suggestions and discussions. Special thanks to Dilnaz Boga, Malik Sajad, Er. Malik Parvez, Er. Malik Ishfaq, Basharat Aiyaz, Bashir Ahmad Shapoo, Tariq A. Shapoo, Malik Nazir Darwesh, Najid Bashir, Dr. Rakesh, Prof. Yashwant Mehta and our parents for their immense help and support.